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India’s Apparel Export Growth Challenge

2 min read
RBI ESINABARD ESISEBI

Current Status and Challenges

  • Stagnant Global Share: India’s apparel export share remains at 3%, despite being the second-largest employment sector after agriculture.
  • Export Volume: Apparel exports are at $37.8 billion, while the global textile and apparel (T&A) market is worth $897.8 billion.
  • MSME Dominance: Over 80% of apparel units are small-scale, leading to fragmentation, low scalability, and poor global integration.

Significance of the Textile and Apparel Sector

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  • Mass Employment Driver: Employs 45+ million people, especially in Tamil Nadu, Gujarat, and West Bengal.
  • High Value Addition: Generates higher returns via full supply chain integration—from raw cotton to finished apparel.
  • Export Potential: Key to India’s ambition to reach $40 billion in apparel exports by 2030.
  • Boosts Ancillary Industries: Supports growth in dyes, logistics, chemicals, machinery, and retail.
  • Women-Led Workforce: Nearly 70% of apparel workers are women, promoting gender-inclusive growth (e.g. Shahi Exports employs 70,000+ women).
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Key Government Initiatives

  • Textile-Focused:
    • PM MITRA Parks: 7 mega integrated textile parks to lower logistics costs and enhance scale.
    • Amended TUFS: Financial aid for technology upgradation in textile units.
  • Apparel-Focused:
    • RoSCTL: Refund of embedded taxes on exports.
    • SAMARTH Scheme: Skill development for workers in the apparel value chain.
    • PLI Scheme (Textiles): Incentivizes investment in MMF and technical textiles; PLI 2.0 aims to include large garment units.

Structural Bottlenecks

  • Fragmented Ecosystem: MSMEs lack scale, affecting productivity and global competitiveness.
  • Costly Capital: India’s high 9% interest rate limits expansion (vs. 3–4.5% in China/Vietnam).
  • Labour Rigidity: Double overtime pay and complex regulations deter formal hiring and scalability.
  • Inefficient Supply Chain: Dispersed production increases turnaround times and costs.
  • Underutilized Female Labour: Despite high demand, female labour force participation (FLFP) remains low.

Policy Recommendations – The Way Forward:

  • Subsidized Capital Expansion:
    • Provide 25–30% capex subsidy and 5–7 years tax holiday for large units with 1,000+ machines.
  • Flexible Labour Reforms:
    • Align overtime payments to ILO standard (1.25x) and simplify compliance norms for apparel factories.
  • MGNREGA-Wage Linkage:
    • Use 25–30% of MGNREGA funds to subsidize wages in garment units to boost formal employment and cost competitiveness.
  • Strategic MITRA Garment Hubs:
    • Develop 2 integrated apparel-focused parks in Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh to reduce migration, enable clustering, and attract investment.
  • Export-Linked Incentives (ELI):
    • Transition from production-linked to export-linked incentives, rewarding global competitiveness and sustained market expansion.

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